I’d heard much positive feedback about Kiwi Fush and Chups – mainly about the quality of their produce and the fact they fried in relatively healthy canola oil. I’m certainly willing to pay more for ‘posh’ fish and chips if it’s good.

On a rainy Saturday, RM and I were in the mood for a night in so decided to give the takeaway a go. On offer was a variety of fish and seafood, battered or fried, burgers and a selection of sides from fries to salads. The menu was nothing ground-breaking but it seemed to satisfy the customers, ranging from families heading to the football to young professionals living in the nearby apartments. Service was quick and friendly and we carted our paper-wrapped goods home, salivating all the way.

Now  I’m no expert on fish and chips but I’m pretty sure the idea is to have a fillet of fish where you don’t have to pick out the bones. The batter was light and not overly oily, but every mouthful of RM’s battered King George whiting ($7.80) contained a jarring shard of bone, making for an overall fiddly and unpleasant experience.

In a concession to health I had a piece of grilled snapper ($9.80). Either the fish was overcooked, had been frozen and defrosted, or both, but it was rubbery in texture and not indicating the freshness I expect from my fish.

The positive aspects – the potato wedges ($5) were fleshy and well seasoned and the home-made tartare sauce zinged with capers ($2.50). But we’re talking about a fish and chip shop here, not a wedges and sauce shop – and for me Kiwi Fish and Chips just didn’t get the key elements right.

    Kiwi Fish and Chips, Tribeca Apartments, 412- 442 Victoria Parade, East Melbourne +61 3 9417 5494

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