There’s something to be said for revisiting old favourites.

Before I moved to Melbourne, every time I visited the city I’d make a pilgrimage to Brunetti. Back then it was only a single store in Carlton, half its current size. I loved the European atmosphere, the mirrored walls and the glass cabinet full of cakes. There was nowhere else like it back home in Brisbane.

Now, not only has Brunetti spread its delights to other locations (including the panetteria close to my house in Fitzroy, which constantly calls my name), it’s expanded its range of traditional Italian sweets and cakes.

Thanks to FoodPampering, I was invited to sample a selection of Brunetti‘s famous petit fours as well as their newest pastry, La Creazione ($4.50). The latter is choux pastry filled with bitter chocolate cream and a hint of orange. It takes its name from the famous Sistine Chapel image ‘The Creation of Adam’ which has been cleverly printed onto a chocolate plaque. This is an elegant, high-end eclair!

The words that come to mind when describing the Bigne San Guiseppe ($4) are those made famous by Tyra Banks – ‘ugly/pretty’.  The lightly fried doughnut is rather lumpen in appearance but its hunchback looks belie the smooth chantilly cream contained inside – an enticing mixture of cream, vanilla custard and strega liqueur.

I have been known to order a plate of Brunetti petit fours as dessert as I’ve been unable to choose just one single item. I rate the strawberry tart with vanilla custard and the millefoglie – puff pastry with, you guessed it, vanilla custard.

Two other items from Brunetti are also frequently on my shopping list – the thick Italian hot chocolate ($5) and spelt pagnotta ($6). To curb my hot chocolate spending I’ve finally caved in and bought a tin of it to make at home ($12.90). After following the recipe I now know why it is so addictive – it’s a mixture of cocoa, icing sugar, full cream milk and cream. Don’t even bother doing it skinny if you want it to be good.

As for the bread, I don’t have any food intolerances so there’s no medical reason why I should choose to eat spelt over wheat. Yet this crusty bread with an airy soft centre is so good that I’m deliberately choosing spelt and I can get through a whole loaf of it (thickly sliced then slathered with jam or topped with smashed avocado and good olive oil) in two days. I think it’s better untoasted too. Evidently other people are onto this bread. Last Saturday I went to Brunetti at 9am for my bread – and all six loaves had sold out! So don’t say I didn’t warn you :–)

I think everyone has their favourite Brunetti item. RM loves the almond croissant. My mum buys the nougat for gifts. My friend M likes the macarons.

What’s yours?

Brunetti, 194 – 204 Faraday Street, Carlton (and  other locations)

Sunday – Thursday (6am – 11pm)
Friday – Saturday (6am – Midnight)

Three words to cheer up your Monday.

New. Chocolate. Shop!

Collingwood favourite Monsieur Truffe has opened bigger and brighter establishment in Brunswick East and it has all of the charm of the original plus more.

Thibault Fregoni, the ‘mister’ of Monsieur Truffe, has set up his own old-fashioned cocoa bean roaster and bean press, which means that he will be making his own chocolate. The machinery takes a good chunk of the exposed brick room (you can draw up a seat by the glass and watch the process at work) and there are plans to offer tours at a later stage.

For the moment though, look out for the come-hither lipstick red door which opens out into the bustling cafe. There’s indoor, undercover pram/bike parking at the entrance (yeah!), wooden communal tables prettily adorned with cherry blossom branches and depending on what time you go, a bit of a wait list. Don’t worry though, the warm aromas of chocolate will keep you company.

Of course, the thing to order is one of their wonderful hot chocolates. You can choose between 69, 70, 74 and 85% cocoa (ranging from $4.80 to $5.20), with 70% being the house blend and the most popular mix. I went for the 74% Santo Domingo (was too timid to try the 85% African blend – next time) and it had definitely had a more intense, savoury note than the 70%. All the hot chocolates are served in gorgeous Japanese ceramic hug mugs and carved wooden spoons for licking the chocolate that’s coated on the very bottom.

There is a short savoury and sweet all-day menu with a French influence (with some interesting options for little tummies and fingers). I ordered the field mushroom brochette ($16)- sort of a miniature mushroom burger with olive tapenade, braised cos, melted scarmoza bianca cheese and all speared with a sprig of rosemary. I’m stealing that idea for my next sandwich!

RM devoured his French toast in record time, probably so I wouldn’t get to it first. This wasn’t just eggy bread but an unusual combination of baby apple sous vide, bacon foam and mandarin syrup ($14).

On your way out you can pick up a bar or bag of chocolate or continue your indulgent French experience with some of the cakes and pastries displayed in the glass cabinet. My recommendation is the wonderfully rich and moist flourless chocolate cake and the best pastry (yes it’s true) in Melbourne – the buttery, flaky, chocolatey delicieux.

L’atelier de Monsieur Truffe, 351 Lygon St, East Brunswick, +61 3 93804915
Tuesday to Friday 8am till 4pm
Saturday 8:30am till 4pm
Sunday 9am till 4pm

I have reviewed Anada before, but way before the full-fledged version of MEL: HOT OR NOT when reviews didn’t necessarily contain photos. I have felt for a while that Anada deserved more a few paragraphs of text, so to redress this situation some friends and I organised to have Sunday lunch there.

In terms of decor and atmosphere, nothing much has changed from my last visit – the best seats in my opinion are still the tables by the high windows which stream in the light and provide good people-watching opportunities of Gertrude Street. On Sunday the small restaurant was completely full and had a buzzy neighbourhood atmosphere about it.

Anada is definitely a place that I recommend visiting with a large group – that way you get to try a broad spectrum of tapas and raciones and as the tapas are ordered individually, you can easily cater to individual likes and dislikes. Here’s a run-down of our lunch for five which spans a good variety of seafood, meat and vegetables, all served on the wonderfully tactile ceramic plates also used by MoVida Next Door.

From the tapas menu, three fat juicy oysters ($3.50 each). I’m a believer that oysters are better without any sort of dressing up (never a Kilpatrick did I like) and these morsels had skipped straight out of the ocean onto the plate.

Fried baby cauliflower in zaatar ($5 each). Baby these are not – vegetarians eat your heart out.

Spring Bay scallop quickly seared and presented in its shell with flecks of jamon migas ($5.50 each)

I was a huge fan of the these fat, tender pillows of calamari quickly braised and branded with grill stripes. The calamari was stuffed with calamari tentacles, breadcrumbs, nuts and parsley flavoured with sumac ($5).

Every time I see empanidillas on a menu I can’t resist – but I always forget that I actually don’t really like the bubbly deep-fried pastry which is used for them. So while the shredded rabbit filling in these empanillas ($4.50) was moist, I still didn’t like the overall dryish mouthfeel. I can see the purists wagging their fingers, but a good dose of alioli would have made these better for me.

Queso manchego and membrillo (quince paste) ($4). Relative to the other tapas, I think give this a miss unless you really like manchego or quince.

Another notable dish for vegetarians – Syrian lentils on croupon sprinkled with crispy onion ($3). A small perfect package of contrasting textures, flavours and colours.

From the racione menu, Echuca Berkshire pork belly with fennel seed & smoky aubergine ($19). If you like pork belly this is an unmissable dish – a generous slab of crispy skin supported by layers of melt-in-your-mouth meat  and resting on some very creamy, smokey eggplant.

A simple yet effective dish of juicy mushrooms cooked off with Romato Pedro Ximinez sherry ($11.50).

A fresh and colourful combination of richly-hued of fresh beetroot spooned with labneh, mint and Romate sherry vinegar ($12).

An oldie but a goodie – classic Spanish potato tortilla with alioli ($10).

And finally – arroz negro with cuttlefish, squid, clams and skate ($30). The paellas all take 30 minutes to cook and come presented in their pan, and if you have the appetite I highly recommend ordering one of them. Our pan contained lots of perfectly cooked inky rice spiked with fresh seafood, with the fresh sea flavours enhanced by generous squeezes of lemon.

It’s not surprising that we had no room for dessert at the end, even though the menu did look very tempting. With a couple of drinks, our total came to $35 a head, amazing value for so much excellent quality food. Anada is definitely one of my favourites in Melbourne.

For other excellent Spanish food, try MoVida Aqui, MoVida Next Door and Markov Place.

• Anada , 197 Gertrude St, Fitzroy +61 3 9415 6101
  

How much chocolate can I eat in one sitting?

Quite a lot it seems.

On Sunday, Monday and Tuesday nights, Fitzroy chocolatier Shocolate holds a chocolate appreciation session for chocolate lovers. Thanks to Scoopon I was able to sate my chocolate appetite for $35 rather than the usual $80 and I spent an hour tasting, drinking, sniffing and learning the art of chocolate appreciation.

On arrival, Damien the French chocolatier, greeted me with a glass of wine (though not for this pregnant lady). After a brief introduction about the origins and the processing of chocolate, we got down to business. Hot chocolate shots! From left to right – white chocolate flavoured with vanilla bean, milk chocolate with coconut (Malibu with the alcohol burned off) and dark chocolate. Being a dark chocolate lover, I found the first two options too sweet for me and definitely preferred the dark version – but others in my group discovered the opposite preference. Just goes to show that chocolate can make anyone happy!

Then a segment of light-as-air vanilla mousse layering chocolate and feuilletine (thin crispy flakes made from crepes). A delicate dessert that didn’t overwhelm with its sweetness.

While the others sampled a shot of French liquer and a chocolate cocktail, I was offered a snifter ofpink milkshake consisting of strawberries, raspberries and blackcurrants and laced with chocolate. You know what I liked about this drink the most? The straw was threaded through the curlew of Belgian chocolate. A small but neat detail.

Next up, a tasting plate of Shocolate‘s handmade chocolates – a very sweet passionfruit ganache truffle, dark chocolate enrobing a gorgeous pistachio and feuilletine centre, a moulded white chocolate of basil ganache, a chocolate with coconut ganache made from a mix of coconut powder and chocolate – and in the centre, half of a Vegemite chocolate! Not being a Vegemite fan I did not like this last offering, but I can see why the salty combination would work so well with the thin sweet chocolate coating.

The other thing to note is that Damien prides himself on using fresh ingredients in his chocolates and not essence – hence the basil chocolate (as well as the menthe chocolate) uses something like 60g of fresh basil or mint leaves to make about 350g of ganache. The freshness also means that the chocolates only have a shelf life of about 5 days. And Damien advised us to never, ever put chocolates in the fridge – the humidity affects the texture and flavour.

Then into some serious stuff – a little dab of 100% cocoa (ugh bitter) and a chaser of 67% single origin dark chocolate.

To end the night, we were each given a little box of chocolates (walnut marzipan and French tea) and an opportunity to buy any other products at 15% off. I could not go past the Shocolate praline sphere which I’ve written about before – basically a giant Ferroro Rocher with crispy praline covering a hazelnut heart handrolled with roasted almonds and dark chocolate ($4).

To hear more from Damien about the Chocolate Appreciation Nights, check out this video.

• Shocolate, 3/296 Brunswick St, Fitzroy +61 3 9415 6556

Being a HUGE dessert fiend, I’ve been a fan of Philippa’s work ever since I moved to Melbourne and she was cooking at three-hatted est est est.

Her latest venture is taking over the reins at iconic café Il Fornaio (2 Acland St, St Kilda +61 3 9534 2922) as Executive Chef. Philippa has developed the mouthwatering breakfast and lunch menu (I have my eye on the country pie and her famous smoked salmon, pea and dill quiche) – but what I’m most excited about is that the dessert bar. Yes, a place to go where it’s ok just to order dessert!

Philippa is one busy lady so I’m thrilled that she’s taken the time to have a chat with me today. Thanks Philippa!

Philippa, tell me a bit more about your background?

My passion for pastry emerged early on, but it was during a stint overseas, where I worked at Le Gavroche, Est, Quaglino’s, Harvey’s and three-starred La Cote Saint Jacques, that I honed my dessert skills.

When I arrived back in Australia in 1996, I decided to focus on desserts at est est est, Luxe and Ondine, and all three restaurants collected three hats in The Age Good Food Guide.

In 2005 I was appointed Head Pastry Chef at Circa, The Prince, and then in 2009 I moved to Bistro Guillaume.

What’s do you consider to be your cooking philosophy?

Desserts are the nursery rhymes of eating. They are silly and frivolous, and no one ever died from not eating pudding.

What are some of the challenges you’ve faced in your years as a chef?

I feel like I’ve faced every challenge there could be. I have terrible wheat allergies to start with!

At La Cote Saint Jacques, being the first Australian in the kitchen in 25 years and the first ever woman who had worked there was a novelty for a while, but once I started to excel and eventually overtaking the skill levels of the male staff, things changed and they were not so nice. Of course the language barrier made working there even more challenging because once I began to learn French and understand what they were saying, they could now longer talk about me!

What advice would you give to someone who wants a career in the kitchen?

Say goodbye to your social life. Don’t become a chef unless you are really passionate. It involves a lot of blood, sweat and tears, literally.

I have to ask. What was it like being on Masterchef Australia? Was it just like we saw on TV?

It was very exciting and the producer and all the people involved where lovely and very helpful. It took a really long time to do such a short section and I was very nervous. I’d seen other chefs loose the challenge and I’m not so arrogant. I was scared. But I’d do it again in a heartbeat.

Moving onto your latest venure, what approach have you taken with the new menu at Il Fornaio?

Fresh, seasonal French and Italian bistro food. It’s similar to what I did at Luxe (St Kilda) and I would describe it as things that I personally like to eat.

As Executive Chef, what are you next plans for Il Fornaio?

Purveying. As the weather warms up we will have picnicables, where you can come in and buy a baguette, some terrine or house smoked salmon, chutney, cheese and wine, plus a few slices of tarte. Instant picnic! We’ll also be selling ice cream. There’s nothing else like it in St Kilda.

Finally, you’ve worked around the world but you’re born and bred in Melbourne. What HOT places and things do you love about your home town?

As I live in Richmond, I love Victoria Street as a casual dining destination. My favourite would be the mud crabs at Pacific Seafood BBQ House.

I love all the hospitality regulars such as the Supper Club, The European and Siglo, because I’ll always see someone there I know.

Attica is a wonderful dining destination. I like Maze as it was special and very accessible. Lucky for me my son is a little gourmand so we always enjoy eating out.

Philippa’s daily-changing desserts and cakes will be available in the pastry case of Il Fornaio along with speciality coffee from St Ali. Il Fornaio will also offer a made-to-order cake service with 24 hours notice. I know where I’m getting my next birthday cake!

Images via Masterchef Australia and Philippa Sibley

It appears that Melbourne’s appetite for artisan chocolate just keeps expanding – Shocolate is a shiny new chocolatier that has just opened in my hood, near the corner of Brunswick and Johnston Streets.

On a steaming hot Saturday the outdoor tables in the teeny front area where all occupied, but anyway we wanted to escape the heat in the cool and welcoming red and white interior.  Our afternoon indulgence – a giant Rocher ($4.50). This ball of goodness is definitely a dessert for two; the dark chocolate encases a thin wafer and an insane amount of rich  hazelnut praline. It’s almost like dipping an ice cream scoop into a jar of (high quality Belgian) Nutella.

The counter cabinet holds a colourful assortment of handmade chocolates and chocolate desserts and on the side there is a glass panel where you can peek inside the kitchen to watch the chocolaterier at work. I noted with approval that he uses Cacao Barry chocolate and Callebaut cocoa powder, both ingredients that are in my pantry cupboard (carted back from Brugges).

Indolent Dandy said that Shocolate’s hot chocolate was possibly the best hot chocolate he’s ever had, so I’ll be going back when the weather cools down.

Need more handmade chocolates for your sugar fix? Try Monsieur Truffe, Cacao, Lindt Chocolat Cafe, Ganache, Koko Black, Max Brenner or Brunetti.

• Shocolate, 3/296 Brunswick St, Fitzroy +61 3 9415 6556

Today it felt like a big bad wolf was trying to blow my house down. I literally felt myself being lifted off my feet as I struggled my way up gusty Smith Street, so it was a relief to duck mid-trip into the haven of Monsieur Truffe.

As soon as I stepped inside this chocolate shop and cafe, the smell of patisserie engulfed my delighted nose. Then I spied the wall of rows upon rows of wrapped chocolate ($10 a bar). With a deep happy sigh, I sank into one of the cushy couches and waited for my chocolate treats to arrive.

We each tried a nerve-soothing thick hot chocolate ($4.90), served in homely ceramic cups complete with a little carved wooden spoon like the ones I bought from Japan. Brett and Bek purchased some dark chocolate truffles with jelly lime centres to take back to non-gusty Brisbane and RM and I enjoyed the extra indulgence of a rich flourless chocolate cake (very reasonably priced $3.90) and a chocolate and nut button (very unreasonably priced $2.45).

Basically, cosy little Monsieur Truffe was the most perfect place I could imagine to shelter from cold, wind, rain and general weather unpleasantness, other than my bed. Oui, merci bien, encore!

You can check out more chocolatey-goodness in the neighbourhood from Shocolate.

Update: Le Monsieur has temporarily stopped offering their dessert indulgences on Thursday to Sunday evenings with pastry chef Pierre Roelofs (ex-Interlude and ex-Deanery, recently shortlisted to the top 8 for an international desserts comp in Barcelona with Espai Sucre). Time to picket outside the shop for its return!

• Monsieur Truffe, 90 Smith St,  Collingwood 3066 +61 3 9416 3101‎

St Kilda’s favourite artisan chocolate shop Cacao has sprouted more branches since I was last in town, which is a happy indicator of Melbourne’s ever-expanding appetite for beautiful handmade chocolate treats – even at $1.95 a mouthful.

Cacao’s chocolates are made with the finest Belgium couverture (naturelement) and I like their brightly decorated avant-garde designs. The photo of my personal selection through the crinkly bag doesn’t do the bright hues justice, but I can vouch for the amazing flavours of the Safran – a pop of citrus caramel ganache and milk chocolate ganache infused with saffron, then dipped in dark chocolate.

• Cacao Fine Chocolates and Patisserie, 52 Fitzroy St, St Kilda

I remember that as a uni student, I would regularly take a Fruit ‘n’ Nut into lectures, as it helped me to stay awake under a lecturer’s droning. Koko Black’s Student Fare is basically a fancy version of a Cadbury’s chocolate bar – fruit and nuts pressed into three large buds of dark chocolate for $5.75.

• Koko Black, Shop 4 Royal Arcade, 335 Bourke St, Melbourne +61 3 9639 8911

The master chocolatier from Koko Black has defected to South Yarra to open his own chocolate store and cafe, Ganache Chocolate Lounge. The cafe tables and leather sofa make a cosy retreat from the South Yarra shopping strips and the selection of handmade chocolates and gelatos are a nice alternative to a restaurant dessert.

For summer I recommend the strawberry and chocolate chip gelato, dusted with chocolate flakes ($3.50). For the colder climes, the hot chocolate ($6) made with 60% dark chocolate and the chocolate mousse cake were both soothing and rich. We also took home a bar of distinctively creamy dark chocolate with almonds ($6.90), which we devoured over more episodes of Mad Men.

• Ganache Chocolate Lounge, 250 Toorak Rd, South Yarra

Update 27 April 2009: Pitstop lunch for $8.50, a nicely toasted baguette with salami, rocket, cheese and artichokes.

• Brunetti, 194 – 204 Faraday Street, Carlton 3053 (03) 9347 2801

Is this the beginning of an outrageous new trend in Australia – charging extra for eating and drinking on a weekend?

The 10% surchage that Max Brenner slap onto your bill on the weekends didn’t seem to deter the hoards of people, mostly young and Asian, queueing up for their dose of chocolate as they perched on the low wooden stools. For a take-home chocolate dose, the cafe also displayed a tempting wall of beautifully packaged products and individual handmade chocolates.

Whilst we read the papers and commented on Natalie Imbruglia’s improbably puffy lips, RM cradled his hug cup of Danish toffee chocolate ($5.50) and glanced covetously at my warm chocolate babka with chocolate sauce ($6). Both delicious, both indulgent and the perfect Easter treat.

Update 23 May 2009: If you’re in need of a chocolate hit from Max Brenners, I recommend that you stick to their hot chocolates, souffle and babka. Their $4 choc chip cookie was dry and worst of all, not chocolatey enough.

• Max Brenner, Level 2, QV Square, 210 Lonsdale St, Melbourne +61 3 9662 4442